While looking uncharacteristic of its original, cluttered branch in Mongkok, highly-anticipated Tim Ho Wan restaurant, which opened Apr 10, strategically between both extensions of Plaza Singapura serves the traditional, delicately flavoured dim sum it has gained fame for in their original Mongkok flagship store  and their three branches in Hong Kong.

 

This is the first foray the affordable, Michelin-starred restaurant has outside of Hong Kong, and the first branch out of 5 it will be opening by the end of this year.

Served mostly in bamboo steamer baskets like those hung in the restaurant’s wall, UrbanWire was greeted with Tim Ho Wan’s bestsellers, aptly named the Big 4 Heavenly Kings: the Vermicelli Roll with Pig’s Liver, Baked Bun with BBQ Pork, Pan Fried Carrot Cake and Steamed Egg Cake.

 

These dishes have taken Chef Fung Kam Tim, close friend of the owner and chef behind Tim Ho Wan, Chef Mak Kwai Pui, weeks to master. Chef Mak also plans to visit the local kitchen quarterly for quality control.

The Vermicelli Roll with Pig’s Liver ($5.50), or chee cheong fun to dim sum enthusiasts, is a bold twist from the traditional barbequed pork or prawn fillings. The springy liver provides a contrast to the soft, translucent white blankets of rice flour. This is a dish sure to please adventurous foodies.

 

While most of the dishes were of surprisingly standard quality, the one that blew all other dim sum stores, like ever-popular Swee Choon Dim Sum Restaurant, out of the water is their signature Baked Bun with BBQ pork ($4.50/3pcs).

Unlike other cha siu baos with their smooth, steamed white buns, Tim Ho Wan’s baked buns are served in 3 with a crumbly golden brown exterior that melts into your mouth within the first bite and complements the finely diced pieces of pork, drenched in thick, flavoursome BBQ sauce.

 

 

Photo courtesy of: Brand Cellar

While the trumpeted Pan Fried Carrot Cake ($4.50) proved a disappointment, with its texture being a bit too smooth and watery due to the lack of radish bits, the Steamed Egg Cake ($3.80/pc), boasted a moist, spongy texture that fitted better as a dessert due to its perfect level of sweetness, that provides a good break from the other 3 savoury dishes in the Big 4 Heavenly Kings. The Steamed Egg Cake also left us impressed with its traditional taste, almost reminiscent of a childhood filled with sepia-toned days spent in our grandparents’ homes.

Other standout dishes include the classic har gow ($5.50/4 pcs), steamed fresh, juicy prawns wrapped with skin that isn’t too thick, although $5.50 feels too steep for the tiny, bite-sized pieces. And what’s a trip to a dim sum eatery without the quintessential dim sum dish: siew mai ($5/4 pcs)? Tim Ho Wan’s pork dumplings with shrimp were definitely packed with flavour.

As a refreshing change from the steamed fare, opt for the Spring Roll with Egg White ($3.80/3 pcs). This dish promises a delicate balance with the softness of the egg white bits and the crunchiness of the spring roll. What came as a surprise, however, were the Beef Balls with Beancurd Skin ($4.20/3 pcs). The dish wooed us a mouthwatering scent, but fell short in the taste department. It came up bland due to its lack of salt and the tough beancurd skin didn’t go well with the meat.

 

Knowing that it will be crowded during the first weeks of opening and lunch hours, a separate takeaway counter has been set up for those in a rush. Patrons who plan on dining in will be sent an SMS when a table’s ready if waiting time is too long.

 

One thing to cheer about is that reservations aren’t taken, which means that even if you’re a VIP, you have to wait your turn like anybody else. So a date with dim sum royalty is still one of the most level playing fields there is.

Rating: ★★★✩✩

Price rating: $

Address: Plaza Singapura 68 Orchard Road #01-29A

Telephone: 6251 2000

Opening hours: 10 am – 10 pm